The Nautilus 5711 dominated 2021 for Patek Philippe. The brand kicked off the year by announcing it was putting the beloved model out to pasture before taking her on a retirement tour that would make Dwyane Wade blush, launching several models including one with a Tiffany blue dial that turned immediately sold for $6.5 million at auction. . This year, Patek has definitely moved on. The new versions presented at the Watches & Wonders convention in Geneva, Switzerland, where many watchmakers are launching their 2022 slate of novelties, do not include a single sports watch. Patek knows there are many other ways to show off.
Before we jump into the new releases, let’s take a moment to consider what’s not here. There’s not a single new Nautilus, or its even sportier little brother, the Aquanaut, in sight. Patek sees your long waiting lists and even higher auction prices and says hell with it. The company is casual about change, seeing it as a standard shift in direction. He’s been there and done that when it comes to these plays. But how many other watchmakers would pass up an opportunity to capitalize on their most popular product?
Still, there’s no shortage of watches here that would make for top Instagram bending material. Highly complicated watches are set with diamonds and sapphires, others borrow from the hot vintage market, while still others arrive with dials in blue, green and Patek’s signature hue of opalinewhich is similar to salmon mousse.
Patek’s first antidote to sports watch fever is color, and lots of it. If 2021 was the year of the green watch, a movement Patek helped pioneer with several green Nautilus pieces at Watches & Wonders last year, 2022 will continue that trend. This year, Patek is releasing two very different green dial watches. The dial of the 5205R is a deep olive and takes on a blanket of smoky charcoal when tilted away from the wearer. The other, the 5270P, comes in an emerald green that shimmers with 17 layers of lacquer. The former has an annual calendar while the latter includes both a chronograph and the very complicated perpetual calendar function.
Green isn’t the only color in Patek’s paint kit. There’s the aforementioned vermeil opaline as well as several watches with blue dials. Again, it’s as much about what’s not there: black-and-white dial watches, which appear reliably in almost every other collection, have been swept away in favor of bolder, more colorful tones. .
But if the color alone doesn’t reach the level of a grail watch, maybe a few carats of diamonds will do? Patek’s most stunning and complicated new watch – so outrageous that it was the only one unavailable to me during a presentation at Watches & Wonders on Wednesday – answers the call here. The 5374/300P is studded with blue sapphires that replace the hour markers, while another 228 baguette-cut diamonds bring some bling to the outer ring of the dial and bezel. This watch features two of the most technically advanced complications that exist in the perpetual calendar and the minute repeater. Most brands would be happy with this technical feat and leave the dial pretty much alone. One of Patek’s best qualities is that it understands that you don’t have to be boring to be fancy. This explains why diamonds are also crashing the party on the new 7121/200G moon phase and the rectangular Twenty~4.